A veritable hub of entertainment, the main square of Marrakech never fails to leave an impression but many other aspects of this historic city have changed little since medieval times. The sights, sounds and even smells of the place are likely to stay with you forever. Moroccans are famous for their hospitality and most will delight in helping tourists on their way but here are some basic tips: * Learn a little Arabic. A little effort goes a long way (and will certainly boost your bartering skills). 'Es salaam alaykum' : hello or, literally, 'peace be upon you'. 'Afak' - please (if you're talking to a woman it's 'Afik', to a group, 'Afakum'). Finally, 'Shukran bezzef' - thank you very much. * Carry some loose change. Tipping is an integral part of Moroccan culture and certainly helps in all sorts of situations. Tipping between 5% and 10% of a restaurant bill is the norm. Also tip taxis, guides and small boys (5 or 10 dirhams) who offer their services for helping you find your way out of the complex maze of streets in the old parts of town.